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Experimental Photos Question 
11:09pm 25/11/2007
  Is it possible to create photograms with sheet film like this and then make prints from the film? If so, what's the best way to figure out how long to leave the lights on and at what fstop? (I figured exposing it to white light via my enlarger would be easiest.) Last question: when developing the film, you use something like this, right? Would it be a complete and utter mess to developing them in my print developing bins with lots of agitation?

Thanks for the advice, I didn't even know what kind of key words to put into Google for this one :).

Also, I have a couple of packs of Polaroid Sx-70 film apparently with dead batteries :(. I'm trying to create photograms with those, taking one sheet of film out in my darkroom, placing objects on it best I can in total darkness, exposing it, then in more darkness, breaking the chemical pack and trying to smooth the developing chemicals out as evenly as possible. It's been difficult. Ive only tried one so far but it ended up looking like an abstract forest of pine trees (pretty cool to say the least, lots of potential for "painting".) Has anyone tried anything like this? If so, any advice?


P.S. Here are three SX-70 experimentsCollapse )
film geeking 
10:58pm 28/09/2004
  Crossposted to photography.

I'm taking a class in zone system for 35mm. As part of the class, we're going to be using the same film (and chemical developers and paper) for the whole class so we can accurately test our whole system. This means that I have to decide what film I want to use for the next three months *now* rather than in the moment.

I definately want a 400 speed film. I love the fine grain of slower films, but I like handholding in diffuse light too much to be comfortable boxing myself into 100. (I think my final portfolio for this class will be shot in late afternoon daylight. I'll have a tripod, but I'd prefer not to have to rely on it.) I've tried Kodak tmax, but found it too contrasty for my tastes. I've tried the Ilford hp5, and that's ok, but it doesn't blow me away, and I understand that the Ilford delta is similar to tmax. I have shot a whole lot of Kodak tri-x, but again, while I like it well enough to use it on a regular basis, it doesn't blow me away. It always seems just a hair flat, like it could use a richer gradient of grey, particularly in flesh tones. (The one time I was really impressed with the tri-x was when I used HC110 developer, so if I wind up using tri-x for this class, I'll probably use HC110 instead of the lab standard D-76.) Tri-x is my backup choice for this, but I guess I'm hoping to find something really exciting to work with.

So... any suggestions? My requirements are that it be 35mm, black and white, not infrared, 400 speed, easily available, and have a really rich gradient of grey with enough native contrast to keep it sharp but not so much that all my highlights are blown out by accident. I'm not averse to suggestions that involve using different developers or times. I really haven't experimented with film much (Agfa? other brands? no clue!), but I'm having a fear of commitment right now, so I want to see what's out there before I settle on something.

Much thanks for any help you can offer.
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Light Meter Question 
11:51pm 15/05/2004
  I know this forum is more for darkroom questions, but I have one regarding my new (to me, 1950 vintage) Weston Master II Light Meter. It is actually a cine meter (half of the exposure is given in fps (frames per second) the other half in f-stops); it was originally used for motion picture metering so it has no shutter speeds on the dial.

I did a little digging and found that 24fps ~= 1/50 shutter speed for the purposes of metering.
Is this correct and if so how do I convert the rest of the dial?

or is all of that irrelevant because it has an EV reading that may well correspond to the EV settings on my Rolleicord?

Thanks in advance.
50 pack of 11x 14 Ilford color paper 
06:25pm 06/04/2004
  I didn't read the auction carefully and accidentally bought a 50 pack of 11x 14 Ilford color paper off of Ebay. I don't really want to try to resell it on Ebay because it seemed like color stuff wasn't doing really well but it hasn't been opened yet and has been in the cool AC house since it arrived. So anyway, I'm trying to decide what to do with it. Should I

A) Buy the needed chemicals since my enlarger head will do color- I've never done it, is it really hard or is it moderately easy to figure out if you're comfortable in a black and white darkroom? I know a little, like you do it in complete darkness and there's different chemicals...

B) Donate the paper to a local photo place. Could they even use it? Never done that before.

C) Do some sort of other experiments with it with different chemical concotions (sp?)- know of any websites or ideas that would work?

D) Sell it to one of you guys for about what I paid for it on Ebay- Don't remember specifically but I think it was $15 plus s/h. (I can take paypal if anyone wants it).
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07:34pm 15/01/2004
  Intro post, hello. :)

I work in a black and white darkroom, and have processed and printed just about every kind of black and white there is, but today an order came in that blew my mind.

I printed a photo today that was shot on tech-pan film, but this tech-pan had a lot of grain. I'm talking TMZ pushed to 6400, infrared type grain. The kind that looks like a pointillist painting. You get the idea.

My question is, how in the heck did they do this? Even on overexposed/overproccessed tech-pan, I have never ever seen this kind of grain.

I ask out of burning curiousity, getting grain in tech-pan seems to completely defeat the purpose of shooting tech-pan. Heh.
07:02am 15/01/2004

Hello. I just created this journal as a photo journal of sorts and found this community. During my Senior year in high school I took a black and white photography class and absolutely fell in love with it. I hope to some day be able to have my own dark room of sorts so that I can continue with black and white photography. But for now almost all the pictures I take are digital because I'd much rather develop black and white pictures myself than have them commercially developed.

Anyway. I just wanted to say hello. As I get my journal going I'll probably be posting here quite a bit. I'm always open for suggestions and whatnot with photography; I feel it's the best support I can get when someone takes time enough to give constructive criticism and suggestions instead of just saying that they do or don't like my pictures.

Print Recording Sheets for the Darkroom 
11:30am 07/01/2004
  So while flipping through Camera Arts, a magazine I picked up at of all places, a science- fiction store, I came across an article on how one photographer records the information for his darkroom work. Anyone whose used my guest bathroom may remember seeing the charts I have taped to the mirror, recording info such as f-stop, time, and filters used. But I liked his more detailed info so I made one of my own. This is more like the "abridged" version. I thought I would share it in case anyone would like to make their own version.

I made it in ExcelCollapse )

Now, this didn't come out perfect, I viewed the Excel document as a webpage and copy and pasted the code to an LJ cut. So one thing that is missing are the cell borders. Under "Special Requirements" there should be a landscape box, which I can use to record what areas I dodged and/or burned if I need to. It had been something that has come up recently and I was writing it in my chart, but things were getting messy and disorganized.

So anyway, I thought I would share in case it gives anyone out there ideas.
Your darkroom 
10:50pm 23/08/2003
  For those of you out there that have your own darkroom, what does it look like? I decided to show my spread and explain my tricks. Hopefully we'll learn something cool from each other :).

Anyway, darkroomCollapse )
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Film exposed 
04:36pm 10/08/2003
  Just to let you know something that I had heard about, but never experienced until today.

I accidently opened the rear of the camera after shooting an entire roll (before rewinding). There was the entire roll of exposed negatives, ruined I was certain. But since I needed 4 rolls in my daylight tank, I figured what the hell, there may be something left at the beginning of the roll that didn't get ruined.

What I found was this (and it may not hold true if this happens in bright sunlight): The last 3-4 frames were black, there were 2-3 more that were ruined but only every other frame, the rest of the frames were fine.

The moral is this: If you accidently open the camera back before rewinding - develop it anyway, the bulk of the roll is most likely still okay.
Sink Stain 
10:16pm 25/07/2003
  Hey all, I hope this community isn't defunct because I have a question:

I have been using an older enamel (probably) tub for printing at home, and forgot to clean it out the last time I used it. Now there is a brownish stain (most likely from the D-76) in the tub, and I can't figure out how to get it out, though I haven't tried really hard yet. I'm worried about damaging the enamel more than anything.

Any suggestions?
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One other Thing: C-Prints 
12:17am 12/04/2003
  I think I have grasped the concept of C-Prints, but I didn't have much luck with Internet search engines. From what I gather, it's a way to make prints out of slides that uses a laser, correct? If so then this makes a lot more sense. I recently saw some large- scale color photographs at the Orlando Museum of Art that were labeled as "C-Prints". I didn't remember hearing the term but now I feel silly if that's the case. That's how I've been getting my Ektachrome slides printed all along from Ritz! :) I never knew the terminology. It does a crystal clear job! If anyone can tell me more, please do :).  
Black & White Photography 
12:00am 12/04/2003
  I stumbled upon this interesting article from Ritz on the benfits of black and white film. Some of it's a little elementary, but good none the less :).

A snippet:

"There's magic in the black-and-white darkroom. The color "wet" darkroom is a maze of chemicals (some quite harsh) and stringent temperature requirements. In truth, you have to be a glutton for punishment to process color in a home darkroom. For color, the computer's "electronic darkroom" excels. But the black-and-white home darkroom is a relaxing, informal place, where the rich black-and-white print can be pursued at a leisurely pace while listening to one's favorite music, sequestered from the light and the hustle and bustle of the "real" world."

While I personally have no experience with a color darkroom, I love the description of experiencing a black and white one is written. I feel the same way! I have a darkroom in my home and it's so relaxing. You really feel like you can roll up your sleevs and get personal, almost intimate with your work.

Also, found a cool technique called Split Filtering.
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Photocopy Transfers 
09:12pm 11/04/2003
  Maybe a bit too "crafty" for some, but I thought I'd send along the link.

For those of you guys that like to try crazy stuff with your photographs (this would only work with black and whites), click here. Yes, it's Martha Stewert, but it may be a pretty cool idea for you non- evil ;) ppl to try.

Hope that helps!
02:02pm 17/01/2003
  Quick question:

How do I fake the look of an old, somewhat used/abused, photograph?

I have a project idea for my photo class, but I need some ideas of how to do things "wrong" to make it come out right.
     Read 4 - Post
09:55am 06/01/2003
  Question (please excuse any cross-posting):

I need a way to do a portfolio, possibly online, of my photographs. The images need to be protected in some way so that I control who sees them, and also need to be unable to be saved to anyone else's computer. Any suggestions?
Nikon EM Troubles 
05:55pm 02/12/2002
  (Sorry to cross- post)

Since a lot of ppl with drakrooms have SLR cameras, I thought someone on here could help.

I have a Nikon EM SLR camera and lately the shutters been acting up.

See pictures an explanationCollapse )
Photography Websites 
03:00am 23/10/2002
  I'm looking for some more good photography web sites to link on my art page. If you would like me to link you (please link me on yours in return) please reply with the url. Thanks!

P.S.-- Sorry for cross- posting
10:50pm 09/08/2002
  Well, I realized that I have .5Ml too little Rodinal for 1:25, so I'm just going to chance it at almost 1:25. Maybe next time I'll shoot a short roll and use the 1:50 to see what happens.  
07:50pm 09/08/2002
  Hey, I've been lurking and finally have a question:

Have any of you used Rodinal with AgfaPan films at a dilution of 1:50 instead of the recommended 1:25?

All the shots are fairly high contrast (semi-nude on black background) and I was thinking that the higher contrast of the weaker dilution might improve the negatives somewhat, but haven't done it before, and don't want to ruin 6 hours of shooting.

I love the 1:25 ratio with AgfaPan films, but they are a little flat on some shots from the studio (fabulously smooth grain though)

(The reason I ask is that I only have enough Rodinal to do the 1:50 dilution, and don't want to wait until Monday to buy more)
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08:59am 09/08/2002
mood: anxious
Last night I finally got around to printing several contact sheets. I was pleasantly surprised by the amount of photos I want to print. Also, a couple frames on one of the rolls looked like some spots got overfixed, but now that I have the contact sheet I see that those spots are really just poofy clouds.
I'm extremely anxious to get home today and get back in the darkroom!